Great House, part 2

It was a big house with vaults and basements, and I will admit that - even though I generally don't give a hoot if an old house is "haunted" - it felt a tad scary because we were possibly the only people there (we heard others but never saw them). Eventually this feeling passed and I felt comfortable in the place - even grateful for all the amenities. Above, old Silas Willard.

Great House of Galesburg

It was a long drive across many corn fields to Galesurg, IL, so it was a sweet moment when we finally arrived in the blazing heat. Both our lodging - the historic Great House of Galesburg - and the town itself were very solid and a welcome reprieve from driving. The Great House was built in 1857 by Silas Willard - a prominent abolitionist and acquaintance of Abraham Lincoln. It is believed the house was part of the Underground Railroad and it certainly would have made an effective safe haven for escaped slaves. Silas Willard's main claim to fame was bringing train service to Galesburg - the very reason we were there!

Indiana Dunes, part 4

This was the most interesting part of the whole Indiana Dunes experience. These homes were part of the 1933 "Century of Progress" World's Fair that was set in Chicago. When the fair was over these homes - designed to showcase new building materials and technologies - were moved by barge to the Indiana shore. Today they comprise an Architectural District. Most of the homes have been restored but the "House of Tomorrow" (bottom photo) is still being worked on.

Indiana Dunes, part 3

After a bit of driving we finally found a piece of shoreline - Lake Front Drive - that was quite pleasant. The lake was a striking turquoise and the sandy beaches were probably as good as it gets for swimming in these parts. Given the heat, I understand the popularity of these beaches.

Indiana Dunes, part 2

We checked out Mount Baldy - not the big mountain in California, but a sand dune. A trail from the parking area leads to a beach where people apparently swim in Lake Michigan despite recurring pollution. I went part of the way down the trail just to get a feel for it. In the context of hot, humid Indiana it made sense. The dune itself is off limits for several good reasons, but back in the day those who ascended it could see the Chicago skyline.

Indiana Dunes National Park

To summarize it, this is the strangest and most confusing National Park we've ever experienced. It consists of a patchwork of unspoiled shoreline surrounding an older state park of the same name and tucked between steel mills and power plants. This is one of the most heavily industrialized corridors in the country, so maybe it needs more parks. Previously it was Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore and in 2019 it was upgraded to a National Park.

 

Lakeshore Cafe

Although Michigan City was a little bit frightening due to the gigantic cooling tower right next to the downtown, we managed to find a decent and even somewhat charming place to have breakfast and coffee. But apart from the Lakeshore Cafe the town itself did not strike us as a lakeside paradise. Even the briefest visit to a lakeside park cost $20, rubbing us the wrong way.

The Brewery Lodge by day

The Brewery Lodge

After Ann Arbor we drove clear across Michigan and plunged into a set of unknowns: the state of Indiana and the city of Michigan City, Indiana - where we had booked lodging. The Brewery Lodge & Supper Club was actually kind of pleasant - a big old lodge nestled in the woods but not far from the Interstate. So even though getting there involved a treacherous left turn, I liked it.

Ann Arbor, MI

In Ann Arbor we had lunch at a place called The Hen. I thought it was okay, but Mrs. did not seem to like the restaurant or the town. It's true that Ann Arbor is not - or seems not to be - a warm, cuddly college town, but rather a big bad one with difficult parking. The real "Berkeley of the Midwest" is Madison, WI, although Ann Arbor also sometimes gets that moniker.

Ambassador Bridge

Our visit to Canada ended as we crossed the Ambassador Bridge into Detroit.

Bananagrams in Canada

staghorn sumac

Beginning with the train to Toronto, I noticed a very distinct shrub with eye-grabbing red fruits everywhere in Ontario - especially along the roads and train tracks. To the best of my knowledge it is staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina). From the back seat of the moving car I struggled to get a good photo of it. These two images, taken in the Kingsville area, are nearly identical even though they were taken half an hour apart.

rural Ontario, part 2

Lakeside Park, part 2

A gem of a park on Lake Erie...